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Middling Mid-Eastern

Would I go back? Only if I were up for the underwhelming.

Kyra
2001, Katti-ma Centre, 100 ft Road, Indiranagar, Bangalore 38
Tel:
Meal for two:

F
or the first half-hour, we were the only diners at Kyra, which gave rise to existential questions such as what are we doing here. A suggestion that we move upstairs, where a rock band was giving a thumping performance, came with a beaming smile, which faded away when we said we wanted dinner and conversation. The menu is a melange of dishes from the North-West Frontier, Central Asia and Middle-East. We tried the Moroccan dishes—an unfamiliar cuisine, though one whose use of spices, vegetables and meats makes it palatable for Indians. The Tandoori Chermoula Prawns (Rs 395) were tender and redolent with cumin. But the Murgh Kasoori Kebab (Rs 225) was unremarkable. I ordered Lahm Kefta Tagine (Rs 400) for the main course with rotis, as the kitchen was out of couscous. Alas, the tagine—a domed earthenware vessel—was more impressive than the food in it. The koftas were under-flavoured and floating in a nondescript gravy. The middle-eastern Samak Dolmasi (spiced fish fillet; Rs 250) was salvaged by the date-and-tomato sauce. Servings were generous and we had to split the grilled pineapple (Rs 95) for dessert. But would I go back? Only if I were up for the underwhelming.

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