Jarring Notes On Frozen Music

"The size of this city I do not write here, because it cannot all be seen from any one spot, but I climbed a hill whence I could see a great part of it. What I saw from thence seemed to me as large as Rome, and very beautiful to the sight." -Portuguese traveller Domingo Paes who visited Hampi in 16th century

Things have not changed much in Vijayanagar. In AD 2000, only vestiges remain of Krishna Deva Raya’s famed City of Triumph, but even these inspire awe and evoke praise. The mysterious music of its stone pillars, the eye-stopping architecture and the entrancing stillness, all have a magnetic appeal that compels you to come back.

But even the casual visitor, let alone the scholar, will be confronted by increasing and saddening signs of neglect: of degradation, vandalism, intrusion, mutilation, even obliteration. The omens can only bode ill. Such has been the decay that UNESCO has threatened the Karnataka government that it would take Hampi off the prestigious list of World Heritage Sites.

One of Asia’s largest and historically crucial archaeological sites, the unique ruins of the 14th century Vijayanagar empire are spread over 25 sq km in the heart of the Deccan plateau. The ruins at Hampi now have the dubious distinction of being placed on the World Heritage Committee’s "in danger" list. Of the 17 World Heritage Sites in India, Hampi is the only one to be designated thus. Reason? Degeneration of the monuments, thanks to that familiar story of official apathy to heritage.

‘Development’ is the other bugbear-two bridges are being built close to the ruins. It all began when the previous Janata Dal government in the state suddenly woke up to the hazards of conventional transport-rafts that ferry people and even motorbikes-across the river Tungabhadra and proposed to build bridges. The present dispensation feels it can’t dismantle the bridges because a lion’s share of the Rs 5 crore earmarked for them has already been spent.

Besides, successive governments have not only ignored UNESCO’s pleas for a comprehensive restoration plan for Hampi, but-fearing the face loss (and monetary loss) a deletion from the elite list would bring-also lied that they’d stopped construction. Says Junko Taniguchi, programme specialist, Asia-Pacific Region, World Heritage Centre, UNESCO: "The Indian government informed the World Heritage Committee that the bridge construction had halted, which isn’t true." She and Gamini Wijesuriya, consultant and representative of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), London, recorded the construction during a three-day visit in February.

UNESCO’s anxiety springs from the fact that the bridges would be an eyesore, spoiling the skyline of this historical site. Besides, one bridge for pedestrians would come up right over a "mantap", some inscriptions and a Nandi (bull). The second-meant to facilitate movement of heavy traffic between Hampi and Anegundi-Gangavati, two towns in the neighbouring district of Raichur-would mean a constant flow of vehicles through the site. The increase in vehicular traffic would bring along hazards such as high-decibel noise and air pollution. "The World Heritage Committee will designate a deadline after receiving the report of this team, and after consultations with the officials concerned," Taniguchi said.

This ancient town faces the real risk of being deleted from the list of World Heritage Sites if the state government and the ASI fail to heed to UNESCO warnings.

But Achala Moulik, additional chief secretary and chairperson of a task force set up by the state government for preservation of the Hampi monuments, cites "other compulsions" that led to the construction. "We agree (with UNESCO representatives) that there has been some neglect over the past few years. We also agree about the need for a restoration policy. The only point of difference is the bridges. Now, it is for the cabinet to decide (whether the bridges are to be dismantled) because substantial funds have been spent," she said.

WijesurIya, on the other hand, accuses the state government of negligence and short-sightedness. "This huge site is the pride of humanity, not only of India," he said. "But it doesn’t looks like the government has undertaken a comprehensive survey of the needs of the people before taking up the construction of the bridges."

Such sentiments are echoed by experts like M.S. Nagaraj Rao, retired director general of ASI. Says Rao: "When UNESCO takes a decision to inscribe a place on the list of World Heritage Sites, the officials take a view that ancient settings must not be altered. So, they are now taking exception to these bridges and relocation of two ‘mantaps’ that are coming in the way. They feel that more ancient structures that come in the way of new roads that will lead to the bridges will be removed. We must remove encroachments, but must involve the local people too in preservation of monuments."

Like in the past, the Union and state governments have been shaken out of their stupor by UNESCO’s threat. The Union government has announced a Rs 25-crore package for the restoration of the whole site, while the state government exhibited a typical knee-jerk reaction-cops used force to evict encroachers on the bazaar street near Virupaksha temple at Hampi. The families, however, have succeeded in getting a stay from the high court.

Things, however, don’t stop at that. In a shocking show of political and monetary power, some businessmen have constructed ramshackle ‘resorts’ across the river-to cater to hippies who come from all over the world. The cops here look the other way as hooch and dope are sold freely.

But how would the UNESCO’s severe decision to strike Hampi off the list impact the site? It would, of course, mean acute embarrassment for the Union and state governments. More important, the flow of funds from organisations and universities abroad will diminish. According to Jithendra Das, head of the ASI office in Bangalore, his organisation’s budget for Hampi’s upkeep is a pittance at Rs 20 lakh. So, it has had to accept an offer from the German Centre for Crafts and Preservation of Historic Monuments to restore the Hampi temple.

This, at a time, when most of Hampi still remains a mystery-only a fourth of the entire site has been excavated. Vast expanses of land along the banks of Tungabhadra, which have been encroached upon, could throw up more secrets about this glorious town. At some places, the locals have uprooted structures to extend arable land.

What Hampi needs now is a coordinated development plan, complete with the relocation of a slum named after a minister in the erstwhile Janata Dal government. "The Hampi Resurrection Authority was set up in 1981, but it has never met since 1990," rues Rao. It will be a moment of shame if UNESCO cites the following two conditions for deletion of a place from the list of World Heritage Sites: