It's hard to believe this little town—with its population of 70,000 artisans, hookah-makers, potters, farmers and fisherfolk—graduated from village council to municipality as recently as in 1995. But that could be one reason behind its crusading zeal to clean up and get ahead. It could also be that the Marxists, who wrested control of the council from the Congress after 25 years, seem as determined to maintain Koilandy's exemplary standards of municipal governance.