Eating My Words

Nizam’s
23 Hogg Street
New Market, Calcutta
Meal for two: Rs 80

very reviewer is allowed to change his mind. Last year I wrote, with sadness, that after its prolonged strike, Nizam’s had somehow lost its soul, and I had decided to take my custom elsewhere. But I now realise that despite my grouses—the garish new interior, and general disconnect with the values that made Nizam’s so special for me—the fact is that when it comes to the actual kathi rolls themselves, none of its imitators can quite match the taste of The Original.

Why this is so is a mystery. After all, the recipe would seem fairly transparent—especially since many competitors employ ex-Nizam’s staff. All I can surmise is that it’s some esoteric aspect of food chemistry. Perhaps something about their giant tawas, seasoned by many generations of frying (remember: no self-respecting French chef ever washes his frying pan; he merely wipes it clean with newspaper). However, I do not withdraw my complaint entirely. I still dislike Nizam’s brash new avatar. So, by way of compromise, I now order their superb rolls, but take them away to enjoy elsewhere. A wide-mouthed thermos flask, I find, is ideally designed for this purpose.