When we look back now, the first Linguistic Survey of India—despite gallantly aspiring to the status of a scientific project, complete with gramophone recordings—is touched with the soft, beguiling light of late 19th century Raj romance. We have an Irish ICS scholar-officer with a thing for the folk life of Bihar. Images of mule-back journeys in pine-scented Jaunsar-Bawar. And that classic tale: a team of G.A. Grierson’s language hunters on the prowl in the badlands of Punjab, looking for a variety everybody else calls ‘Jangli’ (the name a decent hint of its reputation). On reaching the approximate area, they quiz the locals. You speak Jangli? No, no, it’s not us, it’s the folks over there. At the next stop, the same routine unfolds. Not us, over there. And so it goes till the posse of linguists finds itself in the middle of the Bikaner desert!