My briefings were from patchy sources: City Of Joy; stories of Mother Teresa; the Black Hole of Calcutta, and tales by my father of his sojourn in Calcutta from where, having travelled there from post-Partition Punjab as a teenage boy, he boarded a ship with his mother to join my grandfather to live in Singapore. With this background in mind, I had never expected to fall in love with Calcutta—these were stories of a city teeming with people; stories of chaos and confusion, poverty and hardship. They gave me little inkling of what I would actually find.
I visited for the first time in 2016, and took to some flaneuring to break the ice. That’s when the love affair began. I was amazed by the beauty and elegance of the old city and by its history, culture and food. Its peculiar cosmopolitanism—people from all walks of life living side by side, give the city a palpable energy and dynamism. But the best thing by far about Calcutta has to be its tradition of the adda. I was delighted to learn there is a name for the act of holding long conversations about politics or literature or whatever you please. And there are entire institutions dedicated to the art, such as the Indian Coffee House on College Street. This is, I believe, a sign of a great civilisation. It’s what I love to do too, so I realised at that point that I had found my spiritual home!
You can imagine then how happy I was to travel again to Calcutta in April this year to celebrate the opening of the Australian consulate-general in the city—our fourth diplomatic post in India—with Mr Andrew Ford, the Australian consul-general. The first official event of the new consulate was an Anzac Day ceremony at the Bhowanipore War Cemetery, where we paid tribute to those who had died in wars and commemorated their sacrifice. We were very pleased to be joined at the event by IPL cricketers from Australia, New Zealand and India.
We also launched the consulate with a series of welcome events with our friends from business, arts and the diplomatic community. And before I could steal another promising city stroll, we were already in the care of the warmth and generosity which Bengalis are renowned for.