WHERE Bombay's Napean Sea Road narrows into a crooked lane stands the old-fashioned Simla House. One of its first floor flats is tabla maestro Ustad Alla Rakha Khan's, where tradition and modernity coexist in blissful harmony. And where the globetrotting first family of tabla is bound together by intricate, innovative rhythms. It's a humid Bombay morning and the Ustad, very much the patriarch, sits on a sofa dressed in a simple white vest and lungi. He has just returned from a tour of America, informs son Fazal Qureshi, who has also returned from a tour of Europe. Though pushing 80, it's apparent that the Ustad has not lost any of the dynamism with which he popularised the tabla, creating new rhythmic patterns out of the old, both within the country and abroad.