Though Delhi may be a north Indian food haven for the most part, whenever an NCR restaurant that brings something new to the table opens up, it’s a festive occasion. So, when we walked out on to the open-air seating of Terrace Grill at Mahagun Sarovar Portico in Vaishali on a Wednesday evening, long after the sun had settled under the horizon, the mid-week blues already on their way out.
We picked a seat by the pool and I sank into the comfy chair right by the edge of it, hoping not to topple over if the food was too good. The skyline from where we sat was fairly clear and the old-school Mughlai-restaurant vibe that establishments in NCR have pursued since the days of Cable TV ads, coupled with a modern aesthetic, offered the proverbial mauka and dastur for our minds that had craved breathing easy and dining without worry for months now.
After settling at our table on the cosy terrace, we were soon introduced to the 'grill'; we went for chicken tikka and chicken bhara kebab, and the sheer succulence and richness of flavour of both of the starters became to our appetites what the rain used to be Ayrton Senna's driving. Smokiness? Check. Perfect balance of crispiness outside and tenderness inside? Check. The Ghar-ka-Murgh that we ordered for the main course was just as earthy and revealed a strong flavoural legacy. There was a bit of a wait before the chicken arrived. The wait was totally worth it.
Read: The Story of Chicken 65
We felt the same, if not more fanatical, about the mutton dishes at Terrace Grill. The duality of sweet and sour flavours in the Rogan Josh seeps onto the palate nicely, and in the Mutton Chapati, we were shown what a nice comfort recipe can do on a brisk, early-February evening when you're evidently short on a layer of clothing. On a side note, the Terrace Grill menu has quite a few interestingly named picks and each one of them promises a sizzling riot of flavours—Something Fishy on the Tawa, Dahi ke Sholey, Zameen ke Tare, Ninja in GZB and Tawa Khurchan Quesadillas.
Enjoying the fine ambience at this rooftop restaurant with minimal accents needs a drink in hand. The menu is imaginative and despite being lured endlessly by one called Cuddles on the Beach—the toned-down version of you know what—we ultimately opt for the riotous Beets by TG and the dainty Screwdriver.
We finished our grand feast with an ample helping of their Desi Brownie that came topped with vanilla ice cream. It seemed like a great rounding off, but those wishing to break character can also opt for delectable kulfi falooda and the delicious-sounding Khubani-ka-Meetha.