State Maharashtra
Distance 521 km south of Mumbai
When to go Avoid the monsoons. Few, if any, boats will be willing to take you to Sindhudurg Fort in the rains. Winter is the best time to visit
Tourist Office MTDC Holiday Resort, Tarkarli
Tel 02365-252390
STD code 02365
Getting there
Air Nearest airport Dabolim, Goa (100 km/3 hrs).
Rail Nearest railhead Kudal (35 km/1 hr).
Road Turn off NH17 at Kasal, 14 km ahead of Kankavli. Take SH118 to Malvan, 33 km away. Tarkarli is 7 km further down the Malvan Coast.
The Sunday Times, London, has called it one of the best beaches in the world. You will agree when you drop anchor at the Tarkarli Beach, a long stretch of white sand that seems to run forever. The water is emerald-green, and when the sun&rsquos rays fall at the right angle, you can see all the way down to the seabed. A line of casuarinas hides it from the outside world, and when you walk past the trees and out on to the beach&rsquos powder sands, you will feel this is heaven.
From the little town of Malvan, it&rsquos a beautiful drive down shady, winding paths, past tamarind and coconut trees, to Tarkarli. Further out on Kurte Island, Sindhudurg, the imposing sea bastion built by Shivaji, floats like a battleship. You will see children race down the talcum beach and shove each other into the warm, lapping waves of the sea, as, at your feet, crabs draw spiral designs in the sand. It&rsquos such pure bliss that you understand why an international cruise liner like the Hebridean Spirit has a place for Tarkarli on its itinerary &ndash this beach is truly world-class.
Things to see and do
At Tarkarli, you can spend days just relaxing in your hammock, listening to the call of the sea. It also places where you can rediscover the child in you &ndash trawl the beach for tiny shells or build sandcastles.
Tarkarli is safe to wade in but swimming is not recommended because of strong undercurrents. There are no lifeguards on the beach.
Tarkarli Beach
Apart from lazing on the beach, which extends for 8 km along the coast, you can go for walks, play in the sand, or simply take in the beautiful surrounds. If you are visiting in November-December, then take a walk on the beach at midnight. You may be rewarded with the rare sight of turtles laying eggs on the sand.
Malvan
This little Konkan town has a bustling jetty, a tangle of boats, a laid-back air and Man-galore-tiled homes, from where the scent of wood-smoke and aroma of fish curry dominate. It is rustic at heart but at the same time striving to be something more than a village, with its restaurants and hotels and an odd Internet café. To explore, hire a bicycle from one of the small cycle shops here and drift down its shaded streets. You are most likely to witness a cricket match in full swing on a ground in the shade of banyans, a little church, and a peepal tree standing in the middle of the town, a veritable landmark. Beyond it lie the jetty and pier. A stone&rsquos throw away is the fish market. Fishing boats also double as ferries, and leave for Sindhudurg Fort from a tourist pier here. They give you 1 hr to explore the imposing island citadel.
Chiwla Beach
Located just 2 km from the bus stand, the Chiwla Beach in Malvan is a well-kept secret. A semi-circular stretch of soft white sand, just over 1 km long, this beach is a travel writer&rsquos dream. The sea is as azure as the sky and the vista almost prompts you into striking a yogic pose. At one end of Chiwla are boats moored at the docks and further down, the Sarjekot Island. At the other end is Malvan&rsquos Rock Garden. In the last days of December, up to New Year, the Chiwla Festival is held in Malvan, with song and dance performances.
Deobaug Village
A little fishing village attached by the hip to Tarkarli, Deobaug enjoys the privilege of being strategically placed between the sea and the Karli river. Take a leisurely walk through the village, when dappled sunlight filters in through the palms. You&rsquoll pass women sorting dried fish outside their homes, boys practising with their cricket bats, and men sitting by the fisheries factory, waiting for it to open. Deobaug is also great for birdwatchers warblers, white egrets, cuckoos, Indian pond herons, laughing thrush, arrow-tailed swallows and yellow-beaked mynahs have all been spotted here.
Where to stay
On Tarkarli Beach
The secluded MTDC Holiday Resort (Tel 02365-252390 Tariff INR 1,800-4,700 www.maharashtratourism.gov.in), on the beachfront is the best hotel here. It has shaded paths, Konkani-style cottages set amid casuarinas, hammocks, and the sea almost outside your window. Saagar Sangam Resort (Tel 248440, Cell 09403946969, 09969179444 Tariff INR 3,500-5,800 www.saagarsangam.com) is located 1 km from Tarkarli, in Deobagh on the banks of Karli river and close to the sea. They have a restaurant and offer watersports.
Tarkarli Resort (Cell 09320878305, 09168166853 Tariff INR 1,500-3,000 tarkarliresort.com) has 16 rooms on the beach and a restaurant.
Hotel Gajanan (Tel 251401, 253021, Cell 09420424681 Tariff INR 1,200-2,000), on the beach, has cottage-style spacious non-AC rooms.
Chintamani (Tel 253817 Tariff INR 1,200-2,000) has 10 rooms, 3 of which are AC, and is located near the beach. Each room has a tiny verandah facing the garden.
Sai Sagar Beach Niwas (Tel 253920, Cell 09757483001 Tariff INR 1,200-2,500 www.saisagarbeachniwas.com), previously Apoorva Resort, is located near the MTDC Resort, has 4 rooms and serves meals on order.
On Chiwla Beach
The Nath Pai Sevagan (Tel 252250 Tariff INR 600-800), on the beach has 8 sea-facing rooms. No alcohol is allowed.
Om Shraddha (Tel 252727, Cell 09420822595 Tariff INR 800-1,500 omshraddhahomestay.com) has 9 non-AC rooms and a dorm. There&rsquos a garden and hot water is provided on request but there is no restaurant.
Sagar Kinara (Tel 252264, 253910 Tariff INR 2,500-4,000 www.malvanhotelsagarkinara.com), near the Malvan Jetty, has televisions in all rooms and an attached restaurant. Since Sagar Kinara is near the jetty, it gets lonely at night, and isn&rsquot recommended for lone travellers.
Where to eat
Most restaurants specialise in seafood such as Malvani surmai, prawns, karli and pomfret. At the top of many people&rsquos list is Chaitanya, close to the bus stand and the market. Also check out Arun Bhojnalaya, near the peepal tree at the centre of town, and the House of Bamboo near the main market.
Krishnayee is a little restaurant under the trees attached to the Nayak House, close to Nath Pai Sevagan. They serve excellent vade sagote (vada made with multi-grains, served with pieces of chicken in thick gravy) and fresh ghavne (a dosa-like pancake made of rice), with chutney and syrup made from coconut juice and jaggery, and hot tea. Hotel Ruchira in the market area is an economical option. They serve a great Malvani fish thali. At Tarkarli, you could dine at MTDC&rsquos Sagar Darshan, at Hotel Gajanan&rsquos thatched shack, or at the Mithbhavkar residence.
