Slow Living at Fort Amla

Walking into one of Barnagar’s many fields is like walking into a beautiful postcard image of agrarian living. Blessed with Malwa’s fertile black soil and Narmada’s sacred waters (along with Tapti river), the fields here are bountiful. Driving past harvests of soya, wheat, maize and corn, we make our way to one such farm, with our guide Ishwar from Fort Amla. It is around noon and we are greeted by a shepherd and his flock, making their way towards a watering hole nearby. A short distance away, a herd of cattle lay bathing under the warmth of the gentle winter sun.

As we walk further, we come across a woman picking fresh harvest of chickpea leaves. The ‘saag’ made of these leaves is a winter speciality, we’re told, and welcomed to lend a hand. If you’re a city slicker wanting to exercise your green thumb, then this is an ideal day out. We make our way from one end of the field to the other, sampling the ripe fruits that Ishwar has been plucking for us – lemons, oranges and guavas. Grown with natural methods, using no chemicals, these are safe to bite into right after plucking.

Speaking of all things natural, cow dung is a big part of rural culture. At one corner of the field is a woman collecting fresh dung and slapping them onto a wall to make dung cakes. Cow dung is used in place of firewood, as manure and even for coating the floors owing to their insulating and antibacterial properties.

On the other side of the field, a couple is prepping for lunch. Even from a distance, we can smell the aroma of freshly-ground spices wafting towards us. On the menu is chane ki sabzi cooked in a clay pot. In keeping with the hospitality of Barnagar’s residents, we’re invited to join the meal. We had to politely decline of course, but it is common for one to be invited by the folks over a meal or a cup of tea, after a short conversation.

The unhurried yet disciplined way of life on the farm is a welcome change from the chaos of city lives. And one is welcome to indulge in this lifestyle – even if for a few days – by participating in most farm activities.

At Fort Amla in Barnagar, however, one gets to complement the village experience with a heritage one. Originally set up as an Army outpost to stand guard against Mughal invaders, it is now a homestay run by Raghavendra Singh, and welcomes guests from all over the world.

The spiked, arched doorway of Fort Amla is deceptive. Standing tall and unassuming at the end of a rustic lane, it gives you little indication of the glorious 320-year-old fort behind it. It opens up to a walkway with grass beds on either side, leading you to the inner entrance of the building. On display here are antique pieces – storage chests and mirrors that date back a couple of centuries at least. Walk further and you’ll find yourself in an open courtyard that hosts the guest bedrooms and a lone temple tree in the centre.

We’re greeted by Shivika, the ‘Bhavrani’ of the family, in what she describes as the ‘zenana ghar’ (ladies’ hall). The men of the house traditionally host guests in the ‘mardana ghar’ or the men’s hall. Shivika, a gracious host, shares many such nuggets and keeps us enthralled throughout a sumptuous lunch and a tour of the fort. If you’re fascinated by heritage architecture, then the alleyways and open terraces are enticing. Not to mention the views of open fields for as far as the eyes can see.

Although situated in close proximity to some of Madhya Pradesh’s busier hubs such as Ujjain, Ratlam and Indore, Barnagar is a quiet town. After having toured through the popular spots, this is where people come to just breathe and be, says Shivika. It is what prompted them to encourage the idea of ‘agri-tourism’. “Agriculture has been the tradition and identity of the village folk for centuries. The idea is to expose this richness to the outside world, while giving the locals an opportunity to make an additional living,” Shivika tells us.

Of course, a day or two will only help sample the most appetising bits of farm life, but it gives you an opportunity to understand an alternate way of living. And empathise with the process that brings food to our tables. It is a refreshing new way of experiencing a blend of the regal and rustic.

How to get there: The best way to get to Barnagar is by road from either Ujjain (45 kms) or Indore (80 kms).
Best time to visit: Between October and June.
Address: Heritage Village Amla, Tehsil Barnagar, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh
Cost: `8,000 for a double-occupancy room
Contact: +91-9977833323
Website: www.fortamla.com

The number of agritourism destinations has been growing steadily in Madhya Pradesh. Here are a few more places that you might like:

A lovely, warm community, Friends of Orchha, offers a wonderful window to rural Bundeli life. Set up by a local NGO to break barriers of caste and gender, the homestays give travellers a chance to truly live like a local, even as they discover the royal charms of this ancient city on the Betwa river.
Address: Lakshmi Mandir Road, Ganj Mohalla, Orchha
Cost: `1,000 for a double-occupancy room
Contact: +91-9981749660
Website: www.orchha.org

Khamba, on the edge of Pench National Park, is a Gond village, where you can experience what life is like for communities traditionally dependent on the forests of Central India. Spend a day amidst birdsong, watch children at play, and see the sun go down at dusk, even as you discover more about wild and foraged foods, and herbal medicine. If you ask your hotel, they may even be able to arrange a meal cooked by a local family with fresh produce from their own fields.
How to get there: Nagpur is the nearest airport and railway station to Pench. Khamba village shares a boundary with the Pench National Park..

One of the three villages selected for United Nations World Tourism Organization’s Rural Tourism Program, Ladpura Khas (where Rekha Homestay is located) offers a glimpse into the quintessential country life complete with farm-to-fork meals and more. Situated on the banks of the Betwa and Gurari rivers, this riparian community celebrates several festivals through the year, including their own version of Lathmar holi!
How to get there: Gwalior airport and Orchaa railway station are closest if you’re making your way to Rekha Homestay.
Address: H.No. 265 KHASRA (near Upper Middle School), Maharajpura Gram Panchayat, Orchaa, Madhya Pradesh
Contact: +91-6392071364/p>