something about cities that are established on the banks of rivers. But when that city is Orchha and when that river is the gorgeous Vetravati or Betwa, as she is now called, the combination simply exceeds expectations. As if Orchha were not spectacular enough, how would it be if you could see the monuments pass one after the other in a pageant before your very eyes?
Rafting on the Betwa is a superb history lesson combined with a fun adventure. The river rises in the Vindhyas and flows northeast in a course of almost 610km before meeting the Yamuna. It is a fairly fast river and fluctuates rather dramatically depending on the season. In the dry months, it slows to a trickle, exposing the jagged rocks underneath. During the monsoons it can swell and flood the bridges across it, even flowing into the lower streets of the city on its banks.
The river tumbles and froths over stones and rocks, making for quite a few rapids. The rafting in Betwa begins at Kanchan Ghat. There are six persons to a raft apart from two trained personnel. It is exciting to snap up your life jackets and clip on the helmets. First, you are given a basic primer on your part in navigating the raft: how to hold the paddle, moving forward, back and halting. And quite immediately after you have pushed off and find yourself in the middle of the river, do look to the west bank of the river to take in the grand sight of the cenotaphs of the Bundela royals, silently guarding the eternal rest of its inhabitants. There are fourteen ‘chattris’ or memorials here, and with the river in the foreground, don’t miss what may be your most iconic photograph of Orchha.
As you duck under the bridge, you soon approach the first rapid. When you hit the white water – or rather, when the white water hits you – your instinct will be to screech and stop rowing, but do listen to the instructor and keep going. In the more placid sections of the river, you will see the Chaturbhuj Temple in the distance, the ramparts of the fort-complex, the smaller temples, including the old Vanvasi Temple on the shore.
There are many weeds and jamun reeds in the shallow parts, making you wonder if this is why the river was originally called Vetravati or the ‘one with reeds’. They make for a lovely sight, lines reflecting in the water, with sunlight glinting in between. Here and there, you will see cormorants sitting on the stones, drying off their wings and a few kingfishers waiting to snag some catch. As you bob along, you will see an old royal hunting lodge in the distance. Brace yourself again for the next rapid, bumping and hurtling across the torrents. Soon enough, you realise that your efforts to stay dry are not going to work. There are four or five rapids in all and that water splashes everywhere. So, when the instructor comes to a calm segment of the water and asks if you want to jump in, there is nothing to lose but a lot to gain. It is an exhilarating experience to be in the fresh water – just lie on your back and see the blue sky above, or duck your head under and observe the rocks and reeds
through the pale, slightly smoky waters.
And just like that, all too soon, the 3.5km journey is done. Just short of the confluence of the River
Yamuna with Betwa, the rafts pull up on the sandy shore. An experience you will not forget.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
The river rafting takes place on a 3.5km stretch along the city of Orchha, and takes about 1hour and
30 minutes. Set off is at Kanchan Ghat, and there are jeeps to fetch you back. Rafting is not possible
in the monsoon months.
Timings: 8am to 4pm
Tariff: INR2,500 per raft
Contact: Betwa Retreat, Orchha Bypass Road, Orchha; Tel: 07680-252618
Ramraja Adventures, Jhansi-Tikamgarh Main Road, Orchha; Tel: 9893378581, 7509309806