Route
Gwalior—44km/1.5 hrs—Mitaoli/Padavali/Bateshwar—44km/1.5 hours—Gwalior—225km/5.5hrs—Dhubela—60km/1.5hrs—Khajuraho—120km/ 3hrs—Satna
6D/7N Itinerary
The very heart of the Indian subcontinent, Madhya Pradesh has a history as long as humankind itself. Bhimbetka caves bear evidence to the Paleolithic settlements, and over centuries, era upon era has left its mark on the land: the state has been ruled by the Mauryas, feudatories of the Guptas, the Rashtrakutas, Rajput clans, Paramaras, the Chandelas and the Sultanate of Malwa. To the traveller, it can be fascinating to know that the land we are now traversing perhaps covers layer upon layer of ancient and medieval rubble. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has worked extensively in the region, with excavations, restoration and documentation. A 6-day trip along northern Madhya Pradesh is one terrific ride into the past.
Day 1
Start your journey into the archaeological wonders of northern Madhya Pradesh with Gwalior, or more specifically the Gwalior Fort. While the existing structures are more recent, the fort itself is thought to have existed as early as the beginning of the 6th century. Notable are two main palaces, Gujari Mahal and Man Mandir, built by Man Singh Tomar, who reigned 1486–1516 CE. But for a true insight into the history of the region, you should go to the eastern gate of the fort near Badalgarh doorway, to Gujari Mahal, the palace that Man Singh built for Queen Mrignayani. Now an archaeological museum, the Gujari Mahal collection comprises stone sculptures, terracotta figures, stone inscriptions and much excavated material, recovered from sites such as Besnagar, Vidisha, Kota and Shivpuri. The rooms speak eloquently of the rise and evolution of various deities and cults in the Indic Civilisation.
Bateshwar group of temples amidst green woods. The temples are about 35 kilometres north of Gwalior and were built between 8th and10th-centuries
Day 2
A little more of Gwalior: a little distance from the fort, you will come to two remarkable but abandoned temples. The 11th-century Sahastrabahu temple (a difficult name that has been corrupted to Saas-bahu) is utterly magnificent but the sanctum is now laid bare. Badly damaged and desecrated by invasions, it was first reclaimed by British archaeologists in 1881. The second, Teli ka Mandir, with its unusual name and equally unusual rectangular sanctum is equally interesting.
Before you make your way by road to the charming principality of Alipura, take your pick of Chanderi saris, bell metal artefacts and traditional crafts. And, if you are there in winter Morena gazak is a must-buy.
Day 3
About 45km north of Gwalior is the mini circuit of Mitaoli—Padavali—Bateshwar in the Morena district. Spaced out over a 10km radius, the 14th-century Chausath Yogini temple in Mitaoli and the unusual, fortified temple of Garhi Padavali (10th century) are stunning in their isolation. The outer walls at Padavali have been rebuilt but the inner temple has fallen through. However, what really gives you an insight into the process of archaeological discovery and restoration is the jaw-dropping array of temples at Bateshwar, meant to worship several deities. Built between the 8th and 10th centuries, in a post-Gupta, early Gurjar-Pratihara style of North Indian temple architecture, these were destroyed by invasions, plunder and time. When they were uncovered, the central temple to Shiva in the form of Bhuteswara was found in relatively good condition, but the rest were buried in a glorious jumble. Of an estimated 400 temples, about 85 have been painstakingly restored by ASI, and work on this massive ‘jigsaw puzzle’ is still in progress.
Day 4
With Alipura as your base, head to Dhubela, where you will not only find a group of chhatris (cenotaphs) and mahals (palaces) but also the amazing Maharaja Chhatrasal Museum, located in an old palace. With rich archaeological material collected from the Bundelkhand and Baghelkhand regions and an open air gallery, this is a fascinating stop for lovers of history.
Day 5
Head over to the astonishing town of Khajuraho. The famous temples – built between 950 and 1050 CE by Chandela kings – will take your breath away. Of the 85 temples that once sprawled over 20 sq km, only about 25 temples remain, but even these will take up a full day. However, also devote some time to the wonderful Archaeological Museum here, which puts the entire sightseeing into historical perspective. Khajuraho market has a fine selection of bamboo textiles in the form of saris, dupattas and stoles. The prints are lovely, and will make a nice gift. You can even pick up stone replicas of the temples to take back as souvenirs.
Day 6
Drive to the town of Satna, the site of the Bharhut sculptures, which represent some of the earliest examples of Indian and Buddhist art, dating circa 125–100 BCE. Now, the once imposing stupa at Bharhut is a mere stone circle with your imagination being forced to supply the rest. However, the Tulsi Museum at Ramvan, some 16km away provides more fodder. Containing antiquities of the Vindhyan region, the museum also houses the Bharhut gallery, with 81 artefacts and remnants of the Buddhist stupa.
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION
End points Gwalior and Satna are well-connected by train. The route itself is best accomplished by road. For taxi bookings, contact Chaturvedi Cabs: +91-9826355115, 9826215009; email: [email protected], www.chaturvedicabs.com
Gwalior Fort
Gwalior Fort, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh 474008
Timings: 8:00am to 6:00pm;
Entry fees: Indian citizens: Adults: INR 75 Children: INR 40; Foreign nationals: INR 250
Gujari Mahal
Lohamandi, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh 474008
Timings: 10.00am – 5.00pm;
Entry fees: Indian citizens: INR 20.00, Foreign nationals: INR 200; Camera INR 100, Video recording: INR 400
Maharaja Chhatrasal Museum
National Highway 75, Mausahaniya, Madhya Pradesh 471201
Located on the Chhatarpur-Jhansi highway, the museum occupies a palace built by King Chhatrasal. Timings: 10.00am – 5.00pm;
Entry Fees: Indian citizens INR 20.00, Foreign nationals: INR 200; Camera: INR 100, Video recording: INR 400
Archaeological Museum, Khajuraho
Archaeological Museum, Khajuraho, opposite Circuit House, Sevagram, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh 471606
Timings: 10.00am – 5.00pm;
Entry Fees: Indian citizens INR 20.00, Foreign nationals: INR 200; Camera: INR 100, Video recording: INR 400
Tulsi Museum Ramvan Satna
Located near the village Sajjanpur, 16km from Satna on the Satna—Rewa road.
Tulsi Museum, Near Ramvan temple, Ramvan, Satna, 485111
Timings: 10.00am-5.00pm;
Entry Fees: Indian citizens INR 20.00, Foreign nationals: INR 200; Camera: INR 100, Video recording: INR 400
All state museums are closed on Monday and government holidays.
STAY
Gwalior
Hotel Tansen Residency
Address: Hotel Tansen Residency, 6-A, Gandhi Road, Gwalior 474002
Contact: Email: [email protected]; www.mpstdc.com);
Tariff: Double room starts at INR 2,990
Alipura
Alipura Palace, opposite Dhanushdhari temple, Alipura, Chhattarpur District 471111
Contact: 8085238223, [email protected]
Tariff: Double room starts at INR2,250 includes breakfast and taxes
Khajuraho
Hotel Payal, Sevagram, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh 471606 http://www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-payal-khajuraho/
Tariff: Starts from INR2,140
Satna
Bharhut Residency, Civil Lines, Satna 485001
www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-bharhut-residency-satna/
Tariff: Starts from INR1,740