Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh’s capital city, is a repository of beautiful museums, grand architecture, and indulgent food. If you are here for a 2-day trip, spend them exploring the serene public spaces and tracing the city’s rich history.
Day 1
Morning
Check-in to the luxurious Noor-Us-Sabah Palace hotel, the former residential palace of the begums of Bhopal offering grand views of the Upper Lake or Bada Talab. After settling in, head to the iconic roadside Raju Tea Stall for a typical breakfast of poha and tea. This Bhopali institution runs out of poha as early as 9am, so latecomers can relish samosas and jalebis.
After fortifying yourself, head to two of Bhopal’s most iconic structures – Moti Masjid and Taj-ul-Masjid – both built by the inspiring begums of Bhopal who shaped the city’s history as well as the skyline. Moti Masjid is the smaller of the two and was built in the 1800s by Sikandar Jahan Begum. The marble mosque with salmon-hued minarets stands elevated along a busy road. The imposing Taj-ul-Masjid is a sight to behold, with its gloriously embellished pink stone façade, marble domes, twin minarets and carved pillars. Built by Shah Jahan Begum in 1877, it is the largest mosque in India.
Afternoon
The nearby Gauhar Mahal is a heritage structure built by the first ruling begum of Bhopal, Qudsia Begum (popularly known as Gauhar). The ornate pink structure is nearly 200 years old and today serves as an outdoor exhibition space for artisans from across Madhya Pradesh. Corridors with archways surround quiet courtyards, and the upper levels of the mahal feature ornate carved wooden windows. There are regular melas, or fairs, here, especially during the festive season, but even if there isn’t one on when you visit, the Mrignayani Emporium is a permanent fixture. Situated on the upper-level of the mahal, this state-run emporium exhibits and sells local crafts and textiles; browse through Chanderi purses, pen stands embellished with Gond art, and wooden lacquer toys. Another outlet just outside the main Gauhar Mahal complex showcases textiles like Maheshwari cottons, tussar silk saris, and Bagh print bedspreads. An interesting aside, In Custody or Muhafiz, a film starring Shashi Kapoor and an Ismail Merchant Production, was shot at Gauhar Mahal.
After you have had your fill of shopping, head to the quirky Bhopal Express for lunch. Named after the Shaan-e-Bhopal Express train and housed in an actual railway coach, you step into the restaurant through a platform and dine next to screens that display typical sights seen from a train window. Choose from North Indian staples like chicken tikka and paneer.
Evening
After a hearty lunch, head to the beautiful Charles Correa-designed Bharat Bhavan. The museum features a series of tree-filled courtyards, leading to low-brick buildings filled with tribal art and sculptures from around the state. Browse striking pieces by Gond artists like Jangarh Singh Shyam, and when the sun begins to dip, head to the outdoor amphitheatre with a stunning view of the city’s Upper Lake. Watch the skies turn pink and flocks of birds return home for the night. For dinner, Za-aiqa at the Noor-Us-Sabah Palace offers a range of local specialities including Bhopali Mutton Biryani as well as Mughlai and Peshawari options.
Day 2
Morning
After an early breakfast at your hotel, head to the Van Vihar National Park for a slice of wilderness in the middle of the city. The large green expanse stretching along the banks of the Upper Lake functions as a zoo with the status of a national park. Visitors can walk, cycle or drive through in their cars. In the early hours of the morning, the trees and water bodies are alive with the calls of herons, egrets, and cormorants. Spotting blackbucks and chital in the foliage is an exciting experience at the same time do not miss the tiny star turtles in their enclosure.
Afternoon
Devote an entire afternoon to two of Bhopal’s best museums, conveniently located in the same complex. The State Museum is a treasure trove for history buffs and is filled with excavated finds, sculptures, fossils, and art ranging from the 2nd century right up until the British era. Of the 17 galleries, miniature paintings, tools recovered from the Bhimbetka rock shelter, and the collection of rare musical instruments are the most impressive.
Hop across to the Tribal Museum, which is a vibrant space bringing alive the cultures of Madhya Pradesh’s Gond, Baiga, Bhil, Korku, Bhariya, Saharaiya, and Kol tribes. Unlike other museums where displays are locked up in glass cases, the Tribal Museum is a sensorial and interactive experience. Step into a typical mud-floored Baiga home, walk through a tribal wooden wedding pavilion and wander amidst huge installations of bamboo and jute that showcase the communities’ relationship with the forest. Satiate those in-between hunger pangs by grabbing a quick bite at the colourful, art-filled canteen on the lower level.
Evening
As the sun lowers, the Old City’s Chowk Bazaar comes to life with hordes of locals thronging the narrow alleys to shop and eat. The serene, 17th-century Jama Masjid towers above the market and a sprawl of lanes around the mosque are crammed with shops selling gold and silver jewellery, saris, and household essentials. For beautifully embellished beadwork batuas (small wallets), typical of Bhopal, head to MP Store, where the jovial Munawwar Khan will show you pouches, clutches and mobile covers with delicate bead handiwork.
The equally busy New Market is filled with street food joints and modern showrooms for clothing and accessories and serves as a good place to experience local life in Bhopal. The iconic Hakeem Hotel is an ideal place for an indulgent dinner. This no-frills eatery in a narrow by-lane is a Bhopali institution for its delicious Shammi Kebabs and Mutton Keema Kaleji.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Noor-Us-Sabah Palace
Address: VIP Road, Koh-E-Fiza, Bhopal Madhya Pradesh
Website: http://noorussabahpalace.com
Tel: 0755 4223333
Tariff: Double room starts at INR7,500 inclusive of breakfast
Raju Tea Stall
Timings: 6am to Midnight
Address: 123, Anapurna Building, Ground Floor, Sultania Road, Bhopal
Moti Masjid
Timings: Sunrise to Sunset
Address: Hawamahal Road, Talaiya, Bhopal
Taj-ul-Masjid
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Address: NH 12, Koh-e-fiza, Bhopal
Mrignayani
Timings: 11.30am to 8pm
Address: VIP Road, Gohar Mahal, Bhopal
Bhopal Express
Timings: Noon to 11pm
Address: Hotel Lake View Campus, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Telephone: 0755 266 0802
Bharat Bhavan
Timings: Tue-Sun: 2pm to 8pm; Closed on Mondays
Entry Fee: INR10 per person; Free entry on Fridays for the galleries
Address: Bharat Bhawan Road, Krishna Nagar, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Za-aiqa
Timings: 7.30pm to 11pm
Address: Noor-Us-Sabah Palace, VIP Road, Koh-e-Fiza, Bhopal
Tel: 0755 4223333
Van Vihar National Park
Timings: 7am to 6pm
Entry Fee: INR250 per car (max 5 people)
Address: Krishna Nagar, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
State Museum
Timings: Tue-Sun: 10.30am to 5.30pm; Closed on Mondays
Entry Fee: INR20 per person
Address: Shyamla Hills Road, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Tribal Museum
Timings: Tue-Sun: Noon to 8pm; Closed on Mondays
Entry Fee: INR10 per person
Address: Shyamla Hills Road, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Jama Masjid
Timings: Sunrise to Sunset
Address: Chowk Bazaar Road, Ibrahimpura, Peer Gate Area, Bhopal
MP Store
Address: Shop No. 46, Jama Masjid, Chowk Bazaar, Peergate Road, Bhopal
Hakeem Hotel
Timings: 11am to 11.30pm
Address: 5A, New Market, TT Nagar, Bhopal
Telephone: 0755 4252181