Chitrakoot: Mythology Revisited

Chitrakoot means ‘the hill of many wonders’, and rightly so. Much of this region is made of ancient lava fields, but there are stretches of woods interspersed with streams and rivers. This region falls in the states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. Associated with the Hindu epic Ramayana, the town enjoys a spiritual legacy that is unparalleled in the entire country.

It is said that after Rama was exiled from the kingdom of Ayodhya for 14 years along with his wife, Sita and brother, Lakshmana, he took refuge in the forests of Chitrakoot, and the trio spent 12 years in these beautiful woods, already home to many hermits. Lakshmana, a clever workman, is said to have built a comfortable and sturdy cottage for them to live in.

Dominating the landscape is a forested hill, believed to have been the same refuge where Rama, Sita and Lakshmana spent their years in exile. In fact, a tour of this religious town is like replaying scene after scene from the Ramayana, as many sites described in the epic are said to exist in Chitrakoot. A temple marks the area where Lakshmana built the first cottage.

THING TO SEE AND DO

Dotted with temples and religious spots believed to be linked to Lord Rama, Chitrakoot mostly attracts pilgrims, especially during amavasya (moonless night) and Sharad Poornima (night of the full moon), along with festivals like Diwali and Makar Sankranti (celebration of the harvest) and Ramanavami, which celebrates the birth of Rama. For those with a religious inclination, Chitrakoot is a treasure waiting to be discovered.

Idol of Sri Kamta Nath, Kamadgiri

Kamadgiri

The original hill mentioned in the Ramayana – Kamadgiri – is one of the prime spots of religious significance in this temple town. This hill, laden with trees, has a pedestrian path at the base, which is used by barefoot pilgrims for circumambulation. Some people believe that the hill is hollow from within and that it contains a blue, illuminated lake. Immortal sages who can tell the destinies of the world and of mankind inhabit the banks of the lake. It is believed that only pure souls can find the entrance to this hallowed place and pass through.

Another story associated with this hill is that when rainwater fills the lake, overflowing its banks, 24 springs gush out together.

Ram Ghats

These ghats run along the River Mandakini, the permanent source of water for Chitrakoot. The centre of the town’s activities, the Ram Ghats are believed to have been the favoured bathing place of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana. As the sun rises, innumerous devotees gather at the ghats to perform the suryanamaskar or salutation to the sun. Amid incessant hymns and the fragrance of incense, you can witness a flurry of religious activity throughout the day. You might have to constantly fend off invading troupes of monkeys while trying to get accustomed to the din of sonorous bhajans.

The evenings at the Ram Ghats are no different. As the sun sets, devotees gather once again to perform aarti and make offerings of flowers and incense. The sight of lamps and lights glistening through the dark of the night is enough to make you overlook the overpowering chaos of the ghats.

Bharata Mandir

After Rama was exiled from Ayodhya, his half-brother Bharata became the successor to the throne. But Bharata, a devout brother, refused to accept the crown as he felt that Rama was the rightful king of the people. In an attempt to put things right, Bharata found the three exiles in Chitrakoot where he assembled his court and tried to persuade Rama to return and rule Ayodhya. When Rama refused, Bharata took his clogs, placed them on his head, and returned to Ayodhya. He then enthroned Rama’s clogs, as a symbol of his divine right over the kingdom.

Bharata’s assembled court has been replicated in miniature in the Bharata Mandir. It is said that the footprints of Rama and his three brothers are etched in the rocks here.

Statue of Lord Hanuman, Gupt Godavari

Gireesh GV

Yagya Vedi

Across from Bharata Mandir is the forecourt of the Yagya Vedi, accessed via a staircase. Legend says that Brahma, the creator of the universe lit his invocatory fires in 108 pits before the creation of the universe. Out of the original number, this pit is all that remains. A domed shrine was built to mark this spot.

In the sanctum of the Yagya Vedi lies another miniature replica of Bharata’s court. It is believed that the assembly was so large that it occupied two terraces.

Param Kutir

A short walk away from Yagya Vedi is Param Kutir, said to have been built on the site of the cottage that Lakshmana constructed. What exists today in place of the original wooden structure is a domed shrine with a pillared verandah.

From here, you can enjoy an excellent view of the seemingly endless ghats of the Mandakini. Be advised that the site is infested with hordes of aggressive monkeys.

Hanuman Dhara

This hill is dotted with shrines dedicated to Hanumana. They can be found at the base of the hill, in little pavilions en route to the summit and even carved on rocks – and are all painted a bright orange.

According to the Ramayana, Sita was abducted by the king of Lanka, Ravana. Hanumana was then sent to Ravana as Rama’s envoy but was captured. His tail was set afire to embarrass him even further, where upon an enraged Hanumana escaped from his captors and burned down the kingdom of Lanka. It is said that the monkey god was so furious that upon his return Rama shot an arrow into a rock to draw a stream of cold water from its recesses, where Hanumana bathed to cool off. This stream is Hanuman Dhara, which has now been chanelled into a pipe.

Across the bridge is a statue of Hanumana. Past more stalls, shrines and temples is Sita’s Kitchen. It has images of five sages who are seen enjoying Sita’s hospitality. There are many references in the Ramayana that narrate the story of the gradually developing friendship between the three exiles and the hermits seeking solitude.

A ritual being performed, Gupt Godavari

Gireesh GV

Sati Anasuya

The Ramayana also narrates the tale of Sati Anasuya, the virtuous wife of Sage Atri. According to the tale, one day the wives of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva decided to test Sati Anasuya’s chastity. The three deities, went to Anasuya’s ashram as instructed by their wives and demanded that she serve them food while being naked. Anasuya agreed but first transformed them into children. The wives found them thus and repented. At the behest of Anasuya, the three gods agreed to be born as her sons. It is also said that her purity had such power that it forced the River Mandakini to gush out from the earth and course past her ashram.

A large temple stands on the site of the modest ashram of Sati Anasuya. Below the shrine is a huge rock with primitive images of Shiva carved into them. A little beyond are a few older shrines.

Janaki Kund

Sita was also known as Janaki, the daughter of Janak, king of Mithila. This spot, named after her, is believed to have been her private bathing place. Located upstream from the Ram Ghats, this site is relatively secluded. A scholar reads the Ramayana in khari boli, the local dialect, at a pavilion nearby that is on the banks of the Mandakini.

Sphatik Shila

Sphatik Shila too has a legend associated with it. It is said that one day, Rama was decorating Sita’s hair with wild flowers while seated on the banks of the river. They were spotted by Jayanta, the mischievous son of Indra, who, in an attempt to disrupt this scene, turned himself into a crow, swooped down and pecked at Sita’s feet. This infuriated Lakshmana, who pierced the eye of the crow with his arrow.

There is a pavilion here that enshrines the footprints of the three exiles to commemorate the events that transpired on the banks of the Mandakini.

Gupt Godavari and Sita Kund

As the story goes, the monster Mayanka peeped at Sita bathing in a pool here. An enraged Lakshmana terrified him and stuck him to the roof of the cave. An outcrop of black rock that juts out from the paler roof of the cave is believed to be the monster still stuck to the roof. The pond where Sita was bathing is called the Sita Kund.

Outside this cave is the entrance to a lower cave. A stream flows through here, which originates from a number of little springs that flow from the mountain.

WHERE TO STAY

Chitrakoot has modest options of lodging such as the Kamadgiri Bhawan (Tel: 07670265357; Tariff: ₹275-450), which offers a doctor on-call and has a canteen. The Guru Kripa Atithee Griha (Tel: 05198-224666; Tariff: ₹600-1,000) provides arrangements for worshipping as well. UP Tourism’s Rahi Tourist Bungalow (Tel: 224219; Tariff: ₹950-2,500), run by the tourism department, offers dorm beds (₹200-400 per bed) as well.

WHERE TO EAT

By virtue of not being a tourist spot, Chitrakoot has limited food options. Although there are many local eateries around town, it is a good idea to have the major meals at your hotel, unless you are feeling adventurous.

When to go October-March Location The town of Chitrakoot lies in the historical region of Chitrakoot, which is spread over the states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh Air Nearest airport: Allahabad Rail Nearest rail: Chitrakoot Dham