In the golden hour before sunset, Bhedaghat’s 100-foot-high marble cliffs blushed pink and pale gold. The River Narmada has cut a channel through the soft marble rock creating a gorge called Marble Rocks. From our boat, looking at the buttery behemoths rising up on either bank, I visualised faces and animals in the gnarled cliffs. The 45-minute boat ride took us past Shivling Point, named for a rocky protrusion resembling a shivalinga. In sharp contrast to the chaotic ghat where we boarded the boat, the river’s quiet was broken only by the swish of oars and the guides’ lyrical script.
![The cracks that form in marble rocks are due to water erosion over time.](https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/S2-WS12-01-DSC_0317-684x1024.jpg)
Back on land in Bhedaghat town, I browsed stalls selling intricate hand-carved marble animals, deities, and incense holders. Chatting with a lady sculptor, I was happy to learn that mining, plastics, and fishing are banned here. Craftsmen get their marble from quarries further inland. The tiny marble turtle I buy for ₹20 comes wrapped in newspaper.
![Marble Rock’s craggy rock faces are reflected in the calm waters of the Narmada.](https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/S2-WS12-02-DSC_0369-1024x684.jpg)
A five-minute drive away is Dhuandhar Falls. It was almost sundown when we got there, and I didn’t have enough time to walk the long path for the best view of the waterfall. Instead, I boarded the glass-enclosed cable car for an aerial perspective of the Narmada crashing down over rocks in a nearly 100-foot-high fall. The ropeway deposited me by the riverbank, where I sat for a while on the pink rocks. I grabbed a quick snack from a makeshift shanty: Slices of fresh, forest-grown cucumber, with a spritz of lime and chaat masala, served on a leaf. Nearby, an old marble artisan chipped away at a tiny incense holder. I didn’t need one, but it felt right to take home this piece of local art.
![Locals dig up quartz stones to sell to tourists.](https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/S2-WS12-03-DSC_0100-1024x936.jpg)
THE INFORMATION
Getting There: Bhedaghat is 25 km/45 min west of Jabalpur.
Boating at Marble Rocks
Open: Operational from Oct 15 – June 15, but can start earlier if the monsoon recedes.
Tariff: Shared boat rides cost ₹50 per person, while a private boat (seats 5) starts at ₹400.
Narmada Ropeway
Hours: 10.30 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed for lunch from 1.30 p.m.- 2 p.m.; Closed for the monsoon.
Tariff: Round-trip tickets cost ₹95 per person.
Tip: For a snack, try local organic produce like sliced wild cucumber for ₹10—it’s cheap, tasty, and benefits go to the local population.
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