Delhi-extreme heat. Extreme cold. Bittercold. "Enjoy it," said a fri-end, "It’s the only place where you do notpay for a sauna." Delhi has this to offer and several shades in between. Whatis also free is the ‘cool’ attitude of the privileged and the rudeness ofthe man in the street. Is the Delhiite an ‘uncultured’ person? No. When youget beneath the veneer, there is a rustic, simple warmth. Now, whether theDelhiite- rich or poor, educated or not-can tell the difference between a raagor a taal is immaterial. He makes no claims to these and sings if hewants to. He is a survivor-first and last. And attempts to survive in everymilieu, however rare. Yes, even in the arts!
Delhi has bloated like a middle-aged woman. Spread out in huge, ugly tyres ofcolonies. The houses are ugly. Every façade is from a dream sequence of someBollywood film. But inside, there is usually warmth lined heavily withcalculated moves at assessing who you are and your status in society. Discretionis definitely not a Delhi thing. Feeling free is.
For instance, men do not hesitate one bit to relieve themselves on the broadfootpaths of Lutyens’ avenues. I thought they were mainly gardeners orpolicemen. But no. On a cold winter night, a savvy dude will step out of hisMerc and do the same.
Delhi is not for single women, they say. True and false. Thirty years here havetaught me that most men are slightly shy of single women and (only slightly)respectful too. Getting a water meter in the ’70s found me being tossed fromone desk to another in the Water Department, until I reached a man who asked mefor a ‘file’. A friend laughed and said he was too embarrassed to ask fortwenty. "Put it in the file and your job is done." So it was. Neighbourswere the same. ‘Shy’.
Yet, wonderful things happen in this city. Shows, talks, concerts in parks,weddings, walks, seminars, films, theatre, galleries. Intelligent, sensitivepeople debate the fate of India and its politicians like they are one’sneighbours. Which they are! Pompous know-alls have the answers to our problems.Decent friends and upright bureaucrats force one to acknowledge the strength ofthis country too. Not everyone is selfish.
So what if every Delhiite wants a car? Every ‘Madrasin’ wants to have idli.What’s the difference? To each his own. No one can take away from the chillair at a garden or monument where the country’s best artists perform. Or fromthe joys of chaat and golgappas at Bengali Market. All this, while those whowill, topple governments. These are the cards that Delhi deals. Like any othersituation in life, choices have to be made and enjoyed.
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This article originally appeared in Delhi City Limits, April 15, 2006
