Of Culinary Sustainability And More 

The culinary space has transformed in the last two years, and not just in the home country, with newer innovations happening in the field at a lightning-fast speed. And while these new innovations are all well-paced, takers for sustainability in the culinary field are still a few. And long before sustainability trended, Chef Manisha Bhasin pioneered many path-breaking concepts in the field of culinary sustainability. With her focus on energy efficiency, recycling, green practices, and advocating the use of local ingredients, Chef Bhasin has been on top of her game for a long time now. We caught up with her recently to understand sustainability in the culinary field more intricately. 

Going back to the beginning of her journey she says, “I started my career as a management trainee with ITC Hotels in 1987. In 1991, I launched a first-of-its-kind daily changing menu based on local seasonal produce of the day at the Towers Club. In 1996, I brought a new concept of WestView which was once again pegged on best seasonal produce with a black-board menu, which not only was one of the first in the country but was also managed by an all-women team of chefs and service personnel.”

She later researched the cuisine of Delhi, while unearthing community cuisines that found a home in Delhi. She eventually introduced Dehlnavi, an amalgamation of various communities and settlers of Delhi. “This opened more doors as I got interested in local ingredients and the value they add to the cuisine. And that’s how my journey to explore our home cuisines and production began.” 

On asked about how she got the idea of sustainability in the culinary space she says, “In my formative years as a chef, I tried to find answers to many culinary puzzles by exploring our indigenous produce. As a young girl, I used to accompany my grandfather for the weekly visits to the vegetable and meat market in summer holidays and learned how to differentiate best from good. At the same time, subconsciously, I realised the huge variety of products available in our country which later found its way on my menus.”

“In the late 90s we were no longer overawed by international produce and we became aware of the culinary heritage of our country, which led to rediscovering the ancient culinary wisdom, along with chefs appreciating what the home country had to offer. Today, the west is looking at us for answers to many food issues they are facing — whether it is slow cooking, or philosophy of mindful eating, or Indian superfoods like turmeric, ginger, pepper,” she adds. 

The chef believes that sustainability is a way of life, and the hospitality industry in particular leaves a large footprint. Talking about the sustainable practices in her kitchen, she says, “I use local ingredients, grown within a 100km radius, ensure using the right kind of vessel as it plays a vital role in the nutritional value of food and I’ve also introduced various concepts that help in eco sensitising our associates.”

Chef Bhasin was also recently awarded the Sustainable Chef of the Year Award at FoodSuperstars, India’s first awards platform recognising and honouring Indian chefs, organised by Culinary Culture. 

Elaborating on the process for selection and ultimately awarding a chef, Raaj Sanghvi, CEO, Culinary Culture, said, ”FoodSuperstars goes through an exacting process. First, over 40 FoodHunters, India’s most passionate foodies from across the country, nominate the chefs, sending in a detailed explanation of why they deem a chef-worthy to make the list. Their nominations are debated at a physical event, where the FoodHunters defend each of their choices. Then, a shortlist goes to Culinary Culture’s Jury of India’s top gourmet experts. This Jury finalises the list to arrive at the TOP 30. The final list is kept secret till it is revealed at the ceremony and not even the FoodHunters know the final rankings. While the only criterion that matters is excellence, the Jury also looks for quality, dedication, and inspiration. To be considered for the list, the chef has to have cooked at a restaurant or delivery service in India during the period under consideration and things like seniority, other awards, or number of years of work experience do not matter.”

The journey toward sustainability in the culinary space, however, has not always been smooth sailing. “Farmers are under tremendous pressure from the consumers to give non-seasonal and even a great looking product size-wise, which is not possible without the usage of chemical fertilisers. Hence, the first step is making consumers and associates aware of a sustainable journey,” says Chef Bhasin. 

She also emphasises ensuring from the very start that the farmer follows the right way of cultivation. And that sensitisation has to take place at all levels, right from the producer to the consumer, in order to move forward. 

Talking about her comfort meal, the chef says, “Anything cooked fresh off the field with local ingredients and produce is my go-to food. Whenever I travel, I try to discover the local flavours whether it is greens, millets, seeds, or fruits. This sometimes also means travelling to  villages and literally cooking in the midst of a field and enjoying the local offerings so as to understand the food and its origins.”

Recalling a latest incident she says, “During my last visit to Uttarakhand, I discovered that fresh rhododendrons can be used to make chutneys or cooling drinks, the local berries can be used to make fermented drinks and the nutty jhakia seed is also used in many preparations.”

On asking about what other experiments Chef Bhasin is engaging in currently, she says, “Even while creating new combinations and experimenting with food, I endeavour to keep the flavours intact by keeping in line with the traditional preparations and originality of cuisine.”