The afternoon sun glinted in the water bodies that surround the maze-like architecture of The Roseate. Inside, the subdued purple and gold interiors make for a spacious and airy space, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls that overlooked yet another water body. I was sitting in Kiyan at The Roseate, speaking to the Spanish Chef Alberto Becerril and the Executive Chef of Kiyan, Chef Simran Singh Thapar.
In an effort to bring forth modern European flavours, The Roseate organised a food festival from 14-20 September 2018. This endeavour was done in collaboration with Chef Alberto. Currently working as the executive chef of Agua, Beijing, he has won ‘Restaurant of The Year (2017)’ by Target Magazine, and ‘Best New Restaurant of The Year (2016) by Timeout Beijing. Chef Simran Singh Thapar talks about learning from this culinary master and how dishes from the food festival are now being incorporated into the Kiyan's fine dining menu.
Chef Alberto's genius clearly lies in combining different flavours and textures and could be seen in the appetizer ‘beginning of life’. A soft seaweed spuma was served with seasonal mushrooms and creamy truffle. I was encouraged to pluck the spongy, melt-in-your-mouth seaweed by hand, dip it in the sauce and pop them in my mouth. The explosion of sweet, sweet flavours marked the beginning of my meal.
It took time for the next course to come, but when a plate of piping hot, rich beetroot rice came my way, the wait becomes worth it. The rice was topped with baby mushrooms that oozed gorgonzola cheese and chickpeas. My vegetarian lifestyle had put me at a natural disadvantage here, but guests could choose from several hearty options like the smoked black cod with cruciferous and roots or the glazed organic chicken with sage and seaweeds, and no one would leave disappointed.
The dessert was definitely the highlight of the meal. Chef Alberto's signature cheesecake was heavenly, with a light strawberry taste. I took my time with it, savouring each bite. In my head, I was already reliving the meal I had had and planning a return soon. For more information: The Roseate