McLeodganj Diary

A Step Back in Time

I discovered the Tibet Hotel and Bar, a charming eatery doing the best Thukpa and mutton momos in ‘Little Lhasa’ (Dharamshala) by sheer chance.

Once, to take a break from the din of Delhi, I escaped to the picturesque Mcleodganj—a cosy hamlet in Dharamshala in Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh. Nestled amid the majestic Himalayas, Mcleodganj is a perfect blend of two contrasting worlds—notwithstanding its small-town label, it literally brims over with cosmopolitan fervour.

The streets of this quaint hamlet are often thronging with nationalities from across the world. They all blend beautifully with the local pahadis and Tibetans as well as tourists from across India who come to visit ‘Little Lhasa’. What draws this motley crowd together is the alternative to Western capitalism that Tibetan Buddhism exemplifies. The warmth of this global humanity, the cool Himalayan climes and the gentleness of the culture—Mcleodganj will truly make you take a step back in time.

An institution in itself

Just like the Tibet Hotel and Bar that is situated on an unassuming bend of the road. I’d heard friends in Delhi, often Tibetans, speak about the experience of the place but had somehow just assumed that it was a thing of the past and in all probability had by now succumbed to the touristy lure of the McDonalds, Dominos and KFCs that just seem to spring up anywhere and everywhere these days—like mushrooms in the rainy season. So, I was pleasantly surprised when I found myself standing right across the legendary eatery while admiring the sheer majesty of rugged, snow-clad Dhauladhar ranges cosseting the town.

An institution by itself, this eatery was first established around the early 70s, as part of the initiatives undertaken by the Federation of the Tibetan Cooperation. The aim was to provide momos and Thukpa, along with the staple Indian, Chinese and Nepalese thali to civilians and officials of the Tibetan government-in-exile. The place remains unchanged and has ever since continued to retain its old-world charm. The manageress in the lobby informed me: “When we refurbish, we try not to change anything which actually is a far more costly affair.” That explained the oak-wood paneling lining the eatery, the spacious bar area with its relaxed, easy chairs—not bar stools, mind you—and the servers clad in black, satin waistcoats, serving with the warmth of a proud grandmother fussing over her brood.

A hub of art and culture

While I was waiting for my turn to be seated, I had the time to look around. The billboards displayed invites to art soirees, book launches, cultural and political discussions and musical evenings commemorating young Tibetan musicians. This place was a hub of activities, a watering hole for artists, young and old.  So clearly, it has evolved from its earlier avatar of bureaucratic cooperation to a cosmopolitan art and culture venue. Just like the coffee houses that once existed in the capital provi­ding a good cup of coffee and animated conversations amid journalists, writers, poets and politicians without burning a hole in one’s pocket, this legendary Tibetan eatery too provides the space for similar intellectuals of contemporary standing.

Juiciest mutton momos

A Tibetan family celebration was in progress at the restaurant while I was enjoying my meal. Young, old, very young and very old happily indulged in the taking of repast. The occasion was the securing of a seat by the talented Dolma—one of the family members—in one of the most prestigious creative writing schools in the world.

The famed mutton momos took a while in coming. I learnt that these momos, at the Tibetan Hotel at least, are never, never cooked in advance and re-steamed, as is the case with most places selling momos. They are literally made from scratch as and when an order is placed. Perhaps this is what accounts for their delicious juiciness—totally worth the wait. However, Tingpo, the Tibetan bread, as is customary with Tibetans, is made in the morning and consumed throughout the day. Well, you win some, you lose some.

Abutting the eatery is the bakery, also a part of the Tibetan Cooperative Federation. Stepping out of the eatery, one cannot miss the fragrance of freshly-baked bread, cinnamon rolls, marble cake and biscuits that waft past. Another must-try!

Simran Chadha is Associate Professor at Delhi University