Mannan Arcade, 2nd floor; 1206, 100ft Road, Indiranagar, Bangalore
Meal for two without alcohol: Rs 2,000
Even as two well-loved restaurants downed their shutters in March, one more popped up on Bangalore’s new Eat Street. Located on the second floor, Medici takes some hunting down. But once inside, a sense of deja vu is pardonable: It looks like every other contemporary restaurant: all neutral hues, white crockery and devoid of personality. The menu promises different: It mentions half-portions for salads and pastas, and the waitstaff happily splits the gazpacho (Rs 150) for the two of us. No tomato juice, but do we detect a dollop of cream? The soup, along with the delectable iced tea (Rs 120), and a roast duck salad with a honey-jalapeno dressing (Rs 220), helps us shut out the unusually brutal summer afternoon. For mains, we order a mushroom-stuffed ravioli (Rs 300) and a chargrilled scampi with spaghetti (Rs 650). Generous portions, tastefully served, but unremarkable. To make us sit up, it takes the crepe suzette (Rs 150): Translucent crepes stuffed with oranges, drizzled with brandy and flambed. It’s a classic, and Medici gets it right. Ten years ago, Medici would have won raves. Now, with home-cooks juggling aglio e olio and aloo paratha, ‘good’ alone may not be enough. Ask the two restaurants that shut down.