Fiji’s capital, Suva, is the most developed and cosmopolitan of the capitals in the South Pacific. To the Indian eye, used as it is to multitudes, Suva is a small, charming, sparsely populated city of quiet avenues lined with grand colonial buildings, back gardens dotted with papaya and mango trees, and old establishments like Charman’s All-Races Gym and Ahmed’s Spice Shop. Fiji is made up of 300 islands and over 500 islets; many are uninhabited. Suva is the political capital, while Nadi (pronounced Nandi) is the tourist hub. Most tourists fly in to the international airport there and are whisked away in a catamaran or seaplane to their luxury island resorts. There are few tourists in Suva as it is a three-hour drive (on a coastal road fringed by tropical forests) or a 45-minute flight away (often on a small plane where passengers are weighed along with the luggage) from Nadi. A few cruise ships, however, dock here. Their arrival is announced in local papers so that downtown vendors can be ready for day-trippers.