FLYING into the world's highest civilian airport, the first specks of snow on the peaks of the Ladakh and Zan-skar ranges look like evidence of a bad whitewash job by The Great Painter; clouds hanging like crumpled cobwebs.
But down below, magic on the roof of the world! Betwixt the Himalayas and the Karakoram, windswept mountains, rolling hills, icecold water. Mighty gorges, howling winds. Virgin beaches, pristine streams, serpentine rivers: Suru, Zanskar, Indus.