The fashion world inevitably evokes strong reactions. For every fash-frat groupie there is a critic who views designers as mildly talented and hugely egotistic members of an incestuous clique. This picture does bear a faint resemblance to reality. But it fails to note the growing appeal of Indian fashion on the world stage. Designers Ashish N. Soni and Manish Arora wowed western audiences with their creations at the New York and London Fashion Weeks last year. Sabyasachi has been selling at Browns, a London fashion store, for the last two seasons, one of several designers who have achieved a foothold in overseas markets.
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The reason why they are on our cover once again. But after the brickbats from the critics last time, we have expanded our jury to 25 names, including top fashion stores (see box). They were given a questionnaire to answer. The list of top designers in each category was drawn up on the basis of votes polled by them.
Their choice for the top slot, Manish Arora, is not surprising after his stupendous performance in the Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) last year. In a poodle-eat-poodle industry, he actually got a standing ovation. Ashish N. Soni, number two, also had a rocking 2005, the applause following him all the way to New York Fashion Week. Manish and Ashish were clear winners, but six names tied for the third and the fourth place. What these choices show is that India has always celebrated variety. You won’t find streets here populated with the one colour that’s in or with hemlines faithfully at the same level. There can never be one particular trend or look—and our poll reflects fashion democracy, Indian style.
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The Jury Is Out, All 25 Of 'Em
Ambica Pillai hair and make up expert
Ameeta Seth entrepreneur
Anaita Shroff-Adajania fashion stylist
Anousha Dandekar VJ and style icon
Aparna-Tania fashion choreographers
Bandana Tewari fashion commentator
Charu Sachdev Moschino, India
Devi Cherian social columnist
Divya Gurwara CEO, Bridal Asia
Feroze Gujral former model
Gurlene of Carma
Komal Mirchandani of Sanskrit, Hong Kong
Harmeet Bajaj Brand Consultant
Meher Castellino fashion journalist
Pradip Hirani of Kimaya
Prasad Bidapa image consultant
Queenie Dhody socialite & jewellery designer
Ramona Narang socialite
Sajni Gill of Mumbai Se, Singapore
Sangita Kathiwada of Melange, Mumbai
Sunil Sethi international buyer
Tarun Khiwal photographer
Tina Tahiliani of Ensemble
Yashodhara Shroff of Ffolio
Yatan and Jojo stylists, Delhi