Martin’s Building, D.B. Marg, Miramar.
Meal for two:?Rs 1,800
No trip to Goa is complete without a meal at Mum’s Kitchen: one of the last places where you can get to enjoy authentic Goan food, the way mum (or probably mum’s mum) used to make it. In fact, that’s the mission that Suzie and Rony Martins, the proprietors, have set themselves. Worried that Goan cuisine was dying out, they put aside their advertising business, and set out on a quest to track down old family recipes from all over Goa. Over the years they’ve collected an entire anthology of endangered specialties—both Catholic and Hindu—which they recreate in their kitchen.
One obvious favourite is their classic Goa prawn curry, served with brown, plump-grained rice. But we’d suggest you be adventurous and explore other, more unusual offerings, like tavlele tal le vel’lim (crisp, fried milkfish), prawn hooman, cooked with sour bimli fruit, keel katkhatem (a bamboo-shoot delicacy) and harem mas (salted pork with kokum, made to Rony’s mother’s recipe). Then, to round off your meal, one of their delightfully old-fashioned desserts, like manganem (confected from coconut, molasses and dal) or crisply fried Moira banana fritters. Suzie told us about the adventures they’ve had in collecting their recipes, and how the same dish can differ from region to region, village to village, even family to family. We’d recommend at least two visits to Mum’s: one for a Catholic meal and one for a Hindu meal. And maybe a third for their excellent seafood platter.