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Feasting on Feijoada

Horse Shoe's simple culinary secret—every dish that leaves this kitchen is a labour of love

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Feasting on Feijoada
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Horse Shoe Restaurant and Bar 
E-245 Rua De Ourem, Panaji, Goa
Ph: 0832-2451788/ 6644044, Sundays closed

Meal for two: Rs 1,000
Rating: ***

If you ask to see Vasco Silveira, the proprietor of this charming, bistro-like restaurant on the edge of Panaji’s atmospheric Fontainhas district, chances are you’ll be taken to a well-equipped kitchen, where you’ll find him working on a joint of meat. That is Horse Shoe’s simple culinary secret—every dish that leaves this kitchen is a labour of love. Attention to detail shows in high quality ingredients, from fresh calamari and good meat, to warm, crisp rolls of the best pau (Goan bread) to be had in these parts. And then there’s Vasco’s cooking, which uses traditional spices without allowing them to overwhelm the natural goodness of the ingredients. The result is Portuguese-Goan cuisine at its best—refined without being in the least bit pretentious. We began our leisurely lunch with calamari (squid) tossed in butter, garlic and herbs, chorico (Goan sausage), moving on to fragrant sea bass marinated in a red chilli and spice paste, tender roast beef and a hearty feijoada, a stew of pork and beans. After a token struggle with our better selves, we also took in dessert—a superb creme caramel and a delicate, restrained version of the Goan favourite, Sans Rival. And then, siesta. Some hot, steamy afternoons are more perfect than others.

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