Society

Except A Pavlova Pirouette

Anglo-India has just made a culinary comeback in unsuspecting Indiranagar, Bangalore

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Except A Pavlova Pirouette
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Bow Barracks
618/1 2nd Main, HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, Bangalore 560038.
Tel: 42073555
Meal for two : Rs. 1500

Friends and family always complain that on return visits to Calcutta, we make a beeline for Mocambo and Peter Cat, two restaurants that recall the city’s old-style glory. They can heave a sigh of relief now, because Anglo-India has just made a culinary comeback in unsuspecting Indiranagar.

Bow Barracks scores especially high with its meat dishes, though the menu is limited—we are told the full range will be available soon—but ticks boxes in both the Anglo and the Indian columns. Several of the dishes are rarities: I’ve never seen Beef Pantheras (Rs 240), for instance, at restaurants—or even Jhal Frazie (Rs 350), at last in the south. The thick, dark Hussaini Lamb Curry (Rs 300) is more familiar, and moreish. The Prawn Temperado (Rs 400), though, lacked the sharpness and complexity of its Portuguese ancestor. We had a similar complaint with the Prawn Cocktail (Rs 340), the prawns being of excellent quality, but the cocktail too cloying to be a good memory.

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Stick to the meats, and you won’t go wrong: The Pork Lasooni Kabab (Rs 200)—no, not a souvlaki or a sui mai—from the Grills section made for a great start to our meal, complemented by a pear-walnut salad (Rs 250) with a tangy dressing. The Grilled Rack of Lamb (Rs 340) was one of the best we’ve had in Bangalore. Be warned though, vegetarians are likely to feel shortchanged at Bow Barracks. The dessert choices are limited but acceptable: The Honey-Lime Panna Cotta went down well, but steer clear of the Blueberry Pavlova (both Rs 180) unless you want your insides coated with whipped cream.

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