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    Diary Magazine | 27 Jul 2009  
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   Dhaka Diary by Subimal Bhattacharjee
Diamond Under Polish
Sheikh Hasina’s ace in the hole in the present government is her young foreign minister, Dr Dipu Moni. A doctor and lawyer with a masters in public health from Johns Hopkins University, she is the best face that Bangladesh has offered to build up its global diplomacy network after the almost two-year stint of the military-backed caretaker government. Her strong secular credentials give her a major role to play in the emerging global scenario. Equally brilliant and self-effacing is her husband, the well-known constitutional lawyer Tawfique Nawaz, one of two Oxbridge-educated Bangladeshi lawyers, and who plays the flute impressively. Dr Dipu Moni has been learning fast on her job—after all, a first-time MP has to be conversant with how government and parliament functions. She is a role model to a number of budding professionals who still feel politics is within the reach of ordinary middle-class people. And that it’s not something to be shunned. Bangladeshi politics over the years has been marred by violence and the growing influence of fundamentalism. The present government, with a host of first-time MPs as ministers, has attempted to stem the rot and introduce freshness and vigour. Dr Dipu Moni stands out amongst the lot. Her simplicity, acumen and credibility make it difficult to oppose her. And quite winsomely, she is also mastering the violin—the teacher is none other than Tawfique.

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Westward Ho
No event in India misses the prompt attention of Bangladeshi intellectuals. Not lagging behind are businessmen and bureaucrats. The issue most debated in recent times was the results of the Indian elections and the role and charisma of Rahul Gandhi. I was told on many occasions that Rahul should have been the prime minister and if such was the case, how things would have drastically improved on the Indo-Bangla front. According to many, he left a deep impression in the mind of the ordinary Bangladeshi during his visit last August by his simplicity and his diligent attention to the efforts of Grameen (phones and micro-credit banking started by Mohammed Yunus) and BRAC (claimed to be the world’s biggest NGO, involved in banking, education, retailing etc) to empower the rural masses. A few indeed claimed that Rahul’s focus on rural programmes in India was inspired by his Bangladesh visit. Meanwhile, many of them wanted me to carry a personal message for him—to please help them get Indian visas easily. Currently, they queue up from 4 am in the morning to submit necessary forms—a process that goes on for hours—and after two days get the visa or the regret slip. A few notes of annoyance were expressed on the Tipaimukh dam controversy. There were also references to Mamata Banerjee, her big victory, and whether she would be able to win the assembly elections and become the chief minister of West Bengal.

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Jamdaani Express
Dhaka’s famous Jamdaani saris have always been treasured by Bengali ladies. They are not cheap, but demand has been rising over the years. India happens to be a big market and the Durga Puja season sees the maximum sales. Aarong, the departmental store of BRAC, boasts of some of the best in variety, but nothing can beat the shops selling muslin Jamdaani in the New Market area of Dhaka. The intricate threadwork, done exclusively by master artisans over days and in some cases months, determines the quality and the price. For lady aficionados, here is a tip—every Friday morning between 4 and 6 am there is a weekly ‘haat’ for Jamdaani saris on the outskirts of Dhaka. You can pick up the week’s best pieces, but don’t expect a big discount.

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A Meen Spirit
No trip to Dhaka can be complete without savouring the best Hilsa delicacies: a four-day stay and five meals of ‘Bhapa Ilish’ with the right mixture of mustard paste. This is not the best season for Hilsa; it is the breeding period for the fish, but that did not dampen my spirits. Mind you, I ate them in restaurants, houses and clubs and relished it every single time. But the meal at the residence of Mr Tufail Haider, former high commissioner of Bangladesh in India, was unforgettable—he ensured the presence of the best of Padma (river) ilish on his table.

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The Shadows Shorten
On June 19, Bangladesh advanced its clock by an hour to extend the day, to primarily address the precarious power scenario. According to one estimate, it will save 250 MW a day. What a great idea—but the best caption for the decision appeared on June 18—. (At 11 pm tonight, PM Sheikh Hasina will ring in midnight—in Bengali it also has a not-so-charitable connotation!).

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  More Dhaka Diaries
  • Nandini Mehta (02-Apr-2007)
  • Mark Tully (22-Jan-2007)
  • Gulu Ezekiel (27-Nov-2000)
  • Aniruddha Bahal (02-Feb-1998)

   

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