Brown Sahib
II Floor, MGF Metropolitan Mall
Saket, New Delhi, Tel: 40820027/28/29
Meal for two (without alcohol): Rs 2,000
What’s heartening about this restaurant is that it’s faithful to the entire Bengali repertoire—fish and meats don’t dominate the menu. There’s room for dals and shaag like pui and kolmi that would be sidelined elsewhere. Brown Sahib also serves the fragrant gondhoraj lime in lieu of ordinary ones. We begin with a thick and filling mulligatawny soup and coconut and daal fritters—delectable enough to draw nostalgic sighs from Sens and Chatterjees missing home-cooked meals. We also sampled the meaty, delicious raw jackfruit (echor) curry and aloo dum with pea-stuffed puris.
We stayed clear of the unappetisingly named Ball Curry but wound up anyway with the slightly over-salted prawn malai curry. The roast chicken with sausage stuffing came smartly presented but was suited for sahibs more bland than brown. Stuffed like foie gras canards, we hesitated but succumbed to the spiced chocolate and pecan nut pudding with ice cream. We enjoyed every cinammon-flavoured morsel. The restaurant even has a parting shot for sahibs brown to the core—a mishti paan held together by a clove! A special Christmas menu will be served between the 24th and 31st of this month.