When people ask me about my impressions of India after returning from the US following twelve long years spent living abroad, although generally positive, time and again I am reminded of these four words
Although, as it turns out, Marie Antoinette's famous
saying was actually a rumour perpetuated by the revolutionaries to feed the
animosity that French peasants had for their rulers, these four words best
epitomize the callous indifference of those in any position of wealth or power
(the haves) towards their fellow citizens who cannot afford bread, let alone
munch on cake (the have nots). And, when people ask me about my impressions of
India after returning from the US following twelve long years spent living
abroad, although generally positive, time and again I am reminded of these four
words. Presumably, being able to afford a nice apartment in a secure, gated
complex with a gym and a swimming pool, I'm a "have" and a chill
runs down my spine imagining if someday my head will roll off the sharp blade of
a guillotine.
But India is prospering, they tell me. Double-digit growth. Low cost tech
capital of the world. Business process outsourcing leader. Largest democracy.
Multi-ethnic vibrant society. Strong secular credentials. Superb banking and
financial institutions. Rising rupee. IT parks. Biotech boom. Special Economic
Zones…. The list is endless, they reassure me.
It warms my heart and a thrill runs down my spine whenever I revise this
list. I want to believe in it. I want to raise my hands and congratulate my
billion plus brothers and sisters that they're part of a miracle. But
congratulating them would be congratulating… I, me, myself. Congratulating the
"haves" who've always had. They just have more now. More
often than not, when I've turned to congratulate a "have-not" I've
had to withdraw my hand and hang my head in shame, praying he'll ignore the
irony of my outstretched hand and forget both--the incident as well as the part
about being in the middle of economic betterment. Their lives are improving
rapidly, aren't they?
One incident occurred when we bought a washing machine
and refrigerator from a swanky electronics store in a beautiful mall in the
heart of the city. When I had left India, I didn't know what a mall was. Now,
standing in the middle of a three storied architectural marvel of glass and
steel, as I admired the polished floors, the smooth escalators, the capsule
elevators and the gleaming storefronts, I felt confident; India was on the rise.
Inside the store my wife an I were treated like royalty, attended to by a flock
of smartly dressed young men and women, serving us tea and coffee liberally,
answering our questions with certainty and reassuring us that delivery would be
free of cost and within 48hours. And lo and behold, within 48 hours there was a
telephone call from the security gate in the apartment complex to inform me that
some men had come to deliver our washing machine and the 260-litre refrigerator.
I opened the front door slightly and waited. And waited. Five minutes rolled
into ten and then into twenty. I peeked outside a couple of times to ensure that
the elevators up to our apartment on the sixth floor were working. They were…
and when no one showed up to deliver anything after forty-five minutes had flown
by, a vein of irritation began to buzz in my head.
Then there was a light knock on the door and a young man, younger and thinner
than me, stood outside, panting, wondering if he had the right address to
deliver two appliances. On that hot, humid July afternoon, he stood sweating
like he had just stepped out of a shower. His perspiration made his tawdry
clothes stick to his body as though they were painted on him, and the first
thing he asked me after I confirmed that he indeed had the right address was
whether he could have a glass of water for himself and his friend, still
struggling up the stairs, lugging the washing machine on his back.
I was shocked. Why hadn't he used the elevator, I asked him.
The security guards downstairs wouldn't allow it, he informed me
matter-of-factly, as though the error was in his unreasonable request not in the
guard's denial.
I was flabbergasted. Using the elevator to ferry a couple of heavy objects up
six floors was a privilege… not a right? What if we had lived on the
thirteenth floor? What if we had bought a 300-liter refrigerator?
Anger welled up inside me and I felt tears of outrage sting my eyes. I
marched down to the security office and demanded an explanation from the first
person I met. The guard informed me that he had simply followed the estate
manager's rules.
Rules? There was a rule saying that people couldn't transport
heavy appliances on elevators? I'd forgive a rule insisting that heavy
object may only be transported on an elevator as the product of a
bureaucratic mind with too much idle time on their hands.
Yes, the guard informed me with a serious face, there were rules for
everything. He justified his concern by stating that heavy objects like
appliances tend to have sharp edges that could scratch the paint or dent the
elevator walls.
I had to shake my head to dispel any doubts that I wasn't in the midst of a
strange dream or trapped by some Seinfeldian fantasy in "bizarro"
land. Meanwhile, the estate manager showed up, and, after a quick exchange of
conspiratorial whispers, was brought up to speed on the situation by the guard.
What if the man had twisted his ankle while hauling up the heavy luggage or
worse, broken his leg, I asked the big, burly estate manager. The man's
response was a casual shrug. By now I had begun absorbing shock well. What if
the refrigerator had fallen on him and crushed him, I asked. The estate manager
frowned, missed my point completely and informed me that the company would
surely replace the damaged goods to my apartment free of cost. This is the new
India, he smiled and informed me, where customer is king. The
deliveryman, damn it! Don't worry, he reassured me, the company would find
ten more people like him to complete the job.
I didn't know whether to laugh or cry.
I argued with the man, trying to educate him on the basics of humanity,
humility and human rights. But it was just not done, he informed me. Why? I
asked, and offered to take responsibility for any dents and scratches that might
disfigure the elevators. My proposal wouldn't influence the man. Why? I
pestered him… Why? After a few moments of dodging my pointed questions he said
that other tenants of this upscale apartment complex might take offence to
sharing elevators with sweaty delivery boys and smelly milkmen.
And that's when visions of murderous crowds with hatchets and spears baying
for bourgeois blood begin to fill my head.
Upstairs, my wife was feeling equally sorry for the deliverymen. When I
returned, I found them sitting under the fan in one corner of our living room,
munching on something. The men were hungry, my wife informed me, and, since we
didn't have any bread, she had given them some left over cake.
Anirban Bose's debut novel Bombay
Rains, Bombay Girls is due out in May.